Home Counties Cruise: Day 19

 There was rain in the night, and just as we were thinking of getting going this morning there was another downpour.  However, fifteen minutes later it had stopped, and we set off at just after 8am.  It was still a bit misty and drizzly.

The first few locks were done in similar conditions.  Then it began to rain a bit more, and I even put my waterproof on for about half an hour.  Then we swapped with a boat at Springwell Lock, and the lady on board said it was supposed to have stopped raining by now;  within a couple of minutes it had stopped, and the sun came out.

Below Stocker's Lock I was looking out for one of the coal tax obelisks, marking the point twenty miles from central London where coal tax became due.  I'd spotted one on the Slough Arm a few weeks ago, but completely forgot to look for the ones on the Lee and the Thames.  I spotted this one, but it's not surprising I've not seen it before -- it's halfway down a long stretch of permanent moorings, hiden by a boat.  If you weren't looking for it, you wouldn't see it.

We stopped at the Tesco moorings in Rickmansworth for a quick shop, and got a wash load going at the same time.  Groups of children were being shown how locks work as we went up Batchworth Lock.  Lot Mead Lock took an age to fill, as both gate paddles are out of action.  Fortunately, it's a pretty place to wait.

Below Common Moor Lock the towpath is being improved, and the same workmen are putting in a new path on the offside, to serve the permanent moorers there.  We had to wait a long time for the lock as they were taking up a wide flat, to be filled with the aggregate that forms the base of the path. Once it was up it had to be bow hauled out; we had lunch while we waited.

The locks in Casiobury Park are all very pleasant -- even more so as it was now quite warm in the sunshine.

Just before we stopped for the day we passed a boat with a butty moored alongside, carrying a very nice store of wood.  The rest of the butty appears to be home to several birds of prey, and something of a greenhouse.

It was only about 3.15, but we'd reached our target for the day, Grove Ornamental Bridge.  We discussed carrying on, but neither of us could remember what potential moorings were ahead -- and thought we might end up having to do a lot more locks.  And as it was a day where most things seemed to have taken a long time, we decided to stop.  There was no space opposite the water mill, but we chose a spot just though the bridge.  In a field on one side a group were being put through an inflatable assault course; it appears the Grove Hotel and golf club offers a whole range of team building activities, of which this is one.

10 miles, 12 locks.  (235 miles, 155 locks)

Home Counties Cruise: Day 18

We decided to eat out last night, and after considering some options ended up at The Weir, a gastropub overlooking a section of the River Brent.  It was pretty good.  Opposite, a former magistrates court has been converted into flats starting at nearly half a million pounds, and houses at almost one a half million pounds.

This morning we were up reasonably early, and set off at 8am.  The sun was shining, but it was pretty chilly to begin with.  The old warehouses which overhang the canal have been given some attractive cladding -- although other parts remain rather derelict-looking.

There are two individal locks beginning the climb up to the Tring Summit, and we also passed under the railway, the A4, the Piccadilly Line, and the M4.  One of the big office buildings has a series of knot sculptures along the canalside.

Before the start of the Hanwell flight, there's a prize winning length of piling.

When we reached the bottom of the flight, we had to turn the bottom lock.  But a couple of CRT guys had brought a boat down, and helped with the second lock.  It also meant all the other locks were in our favour.  All along this stretch had been notices about the missing girl, Alice Gross; at the second lock there were lots of police, and a film crew.  We saw two further crews walking down the flight as we went up.

The Hanwell Flight is really very attractive.  The water was so clear you could see all the rubbish on the bottom, but in general it's leafy and green, with plenty of people making use of the towpath.  Next to the locks are Ealing Hospital, which appears to have a very secure unit; and the former Hanwell Asylum.

At the top of the six locks in the 'thick' of the flight is Three Bridges.  Here the canal crosses a railway line, at the same time as a road crosses the canal.  It's not easy to get to photo of all three levels!

There are two more locks, and at the top one we found two CRT volunteers who helped us through.  We stopped at the water point at the top, and filled the tank and started a wash load.  Then it was continued along the long pound past Bull's Bridge Junction.  This stretch of canal is mostly through suburban areas, with lots of back gardens; it's disappointingly rubbish-strewn.  Bull's Bridge Junction looks completely different from this direction; as we passed the junction bridge we crossed onto waters we'd travelled before, and completed the Grand Union: over the years, and on Debdale and Briar Rose, we'd now covered the whole of the GU main line and its arms.

At the Nestle factory there was a very strong smell of coffee; it seems they make Nescafe there.  We had lunch on the go, then arrived at Cowley Lock, where another volunteer was on duty; his usual colleague had gone home as he had a new washing machine being delivered.  We did two more locks, Uxbridge and Denham Deep, then moored up alongside Denham Country Park.

12 miles, 13 locks.  (225 miles, 143 locks)

Home Counties Cruise: Day 17

With a very relaxed agenda for the day, we were in no rush to get going this morning.  We started a wash load before setting off, and pulled away from the deserted Hampton Court moorings at 9.15am.  At Thames Ditton Island, someone was moving house.  The removal van was parked on the opposite side of the river, and the guys were going back and forth in a boat loaded with household goods.

We stopped on the John Lewis moorings at Kingston, just managing to tuck in behind someone else.  This time we knew where Waitrose was, so there was no head scratching or frustrated wandering.  Having done a top up shop, we set off again, quickly arriving at Teddington Lock, where we had virtually the entire length of moorings to choose from.  I went to see the lock keeper to confirm the tide of our departure on the tidal Thames down to Brentford.  High water was at 1450, so he suggested we leave half an hour before.  While we waited, we both did some work, we had lunch, and then I walked down past the lock to find the obelisk which marks the river boundary between the Port of London and the Thames Conservancy (now the Environment Agency).  It could do with someone having a go at it with some weed killer.

Our departure from Teddington was a little later than planned as a couple of boats came up the lock.  The drop down was only about a foot and a half, and for the first part of the trip, around high water, there was no discernable flow in either direction.

We passed Eel Pie Island and Ham House, while the Star and Garter Home for Disable Servicemen is prominent on the hill ahead.

The conditions were ideal -- sunny, warm, and with very little wind.  Richmond was fairly busy on the waterside, as we passed under Richmond Bridge.

The Richmond half tide barrier was up, so we could go avoid having to use the lock alongside.

Soon the office blocks of Brentford came into view in the distance.  Then it was a matter of looking out for the entrance to the Grand Union Canal at Brentford.  Fortunately we knew what we were looking for -- a big silver sculpture.  It's just as well it's big, because the CRT sign isn't.

The turn in was a lot easier than I expected.  I'd thought the tide might take up sideways as we turned, but in fact there wasn't too much effect at all.  We were now on new waters again, as we've never done the GU between Brentford and Bull's Bridge.  The lock keeper at Thames Lock was waiting for us.

The rise at Thames Lock took us by surprise.  We must have gone up at least three inches, possibly four.  The next section is fairly twisty, and lined with large boats and houseboats.  Soon we arrived at the Gauging Locks.  A big black widebeam was already on the lock landing and took one lock, while Adrian went and pressed the buttons for the lock alongside.  Above the lock the visitor moorings were full, with quite a few boats breasted up.  So we moored alongside another boat.  Fortunately the side doors are on the outside, so we have a view.

Tomorrow we start heading up the Grand Union bound for base.

10 miles, 3 locks.  (213 miles, 130 locks)

Home Counties Cruise: Day 16

It was very sunny this morning, and has been most of the day -- although there's been a stiff breeze which has made it feel quite chilly at times.  We set off from Runnymede at around 9.15, turning round so were were heading south again.  The first couple of locks were staffed, but Chertsey Lock was on self service.  Below Shepperton lock we opted not to take the more direct route of the Desborough Cut, and instead follow the longer, natural channel of the river.  It's rather nice round there, with some parkside moorings and a sailing club.

We stopped for lunch at Walton on Thames, having done a u-turn in the river to moor upstream.  It proved to be a good place for plane spotting, including one of BA's new Boeing 787s.

We've seen every shape and size of boat today.  On the approach to Sunbury Lock we saw The Love Shack, which is a houseboat which actually seems to move.  We then shared with a lovely little wooden boat, which in spite of appearances is only about twenty years old.

When we got to our intended destination, Hampton Court, the moorings looked fairly busy, so we tucked into the very first space -- this time facing downstream so the side doors are on the water side.  The rings are poorly spaced, so we've had to be quite inventive with ropes at the stern.  It's important to be secure here particularly, as there are dozens of trip boats, and they go past fast.  We walked across the bridge to Hampton for a walk up the busy little shopping street, and looked back at the moorings.

The steps up from the moorings are a bit odd.  It's actually a slope, but a few stones have been laid flat to form steps.

We then had a walk round Hampton Court Palace -- but decling to pay more than £18 each to go in, stuck to the publicly accessible bits.

In the open part of the grounds, there were parakeets in the trees, and a squirrel posed for photos.

Returning to the boat, we found that we were pretty much on our own.  Obviously all the people who were out for the weekend have headed back to their moorings.

14 miles, 6 locks.  (203 miles, 127 locks)

Home Counties Cruise: Day 15

As it was getting dark yesterday evening, we crossed the gang plank and had a walk up the path by the river.  We eventually reached one of the lodges, available through the Cliveden hotel for £2000 a night; cars with Cliveden personalised number plates were collecting the guests, who were in evening dress, presumably to take them up to the hotel for dinner.

There was another tremendous thunder storm and heavy rain at about 6.30 this morning.  Being under the trees meant the sound of raindrops on the roof continued long after the rain itself had stopped, as the trees dripped.  However, it's only the second time it has rained this trip, and both have been at night.

As it was the weekend, we had scrambled eggs and bacon, and then set off at 8.30.  Boulter's Lock was on self service when we arrived, but the lock keeper turned up while we were decending and opened the bottom gates for us.  We stopped on the moorings next to the road at Maidenhead, so Adrian could go to shop, while I started a wash load and got the leaves off the roof.  The moorings are not very user friendly, with only the occasional ring half way up the wall; otherwise, you have to tie up to the railings, so the path (used only by boaters) has numerous ropes across it at waist or shoulder height.

Bray Lock and Boveney Lock are at either end of Dorney Reach.  The control consols are gold, in honour of the Olympic medals won at Dorney Lake.

Below Boveney Lock we turned into the weir stream to go to the water point, and Adrian took the rubbish over the lock to the bins.  In typical Thames style, the water point has a large hose and a good strong flow.

Windsor was very busy, with private boats, trip boats, and rowers.  The views are much better in this direction, though, even though it was a dull and misty day.

Lots of boats had come down Boveney Lock with us and while we were filling the water tank, but one by one they all moored up.  By the next lock, Romney (which is bigger than the ones above) we were on our own; the lock keeper says all the boats from the three marinas above Boveney Lock only even go to Windsor on a Saturday, before returning to their marina on Sunday.

Our target for the day was Runnymede; three years ago we stopped here when we had our friends Brian and Mike with us, and we walked up to the Airforces Memorial and were quite moved by it.  Adrian didn't come with us though, and wanted to put right the omission.  We moored in one of the better spots further back from the road, and headed up the hill.  The memorial lists the names of twenty-thousand Commonwealth airmen with no known grave.  It's an impressive and moving place.

Unfortuantely it was still a misty murky day, so the views from the tower weren't nearly as good as last time.  We'll have to come back again!  One of the halls of residence for Royal Holloway is next door, and there were dozens of families delivering their teenagers for the start of term.

We then walked down to the Magna Carta Memorial, and then the JFK memorial, which is on an acre of land given to the United States.

We returned to the boat and bumped into the National Trust warden, who relieved us of £7 for an overnight mooring.  The river has been busy; the French's trip boat has been going up and down, and there have been all sorts of other boats of various shapes and sizes.

13 miles, 5 locks.  (189 miles, 121 locks)

Home Counties Cruise: Day 14

We had a very enjoyable evening last night:  my Radio 2 friend and colleague Bobbie came to visit with her sister and her dog, as they live close by.  It was really great to see them out of a work context.  Overnight, we had the most tremendous thunderstorm and torrential rain.  It woke us up at 1.45am -- the thunder seemed to be directly overhead, and even appeared to be shaking the boat.  By this morning, the level of the river had risen a few inches; we knew this because yesterday if we wanted to open or close the side doors we had to go outside and lean the boat over a bit, as the bank was a bit high -- this morning there was plenty of clearance.

We set off at around 8.30, in rather misty conditions.  It was still warm, though.  The first landmark was Chertsey Bridge.

Chertsey Lock was on self service, so Adrian went to press the buttons.  The locks are set to go slow when on self service, so it took nearly half an hour to get through.  We were soon passing under the M3 and on to Laleham.  At Laleham boatyard there's a rather nice collection of classic cruisers.

Staines looks rather attractive from the water.  The Swan Hotel has plenty of flowers, and decent moorings.

Our second motorway of the day was the M25, which has two bridges, one for each carriageway.  The nearer one was the least attractive.

Bell Weir Lock is immediately afterwards.  The locks are all different shapes and sizes, and this is a big one; we were on our own.  The lock keeper was very uncommunicative.  By the next lock, at Old Windsor, there were five boats going up, and the lady on the front of the cruiser behind us was very chatty.

We hardly had to wait for any of the locks.  At Romney Lock, the French's steam boat, Streatley, was just leaving.

Windsor is above the lock, and the castle towers over the town's more ordinary buildings.

We'd had Dorney Lake in mind as a destination, but we were making very good progress, so decided to continue.  So we had lunch on the move and continued to Boveney Lock which was on self service.  A couple on a cruiser were operating it, and we just managed to fit in as well.  Above Bray lock we went under the M4.  Bray is very attractive from the river, and there were people out on the terrace at the Roux brothers' Waterside Inn.

Maidenhead follows quickly on.  Brunel's rail bridge has the widest and flattest brick arch in the world, and Maidenhead Bridge is beyond.

We went up Boulter's Lock to our new planned destination, Cliveden Reach.  By now the sun had come out, and the reach looked fantastic.  A bit further along, Cliveden house comes into view high up on the hill.

We cruised almost to the end of the reach, checking out possible moorings as we went.  The prime ones on the islands, Bavin's Gulls, were either taken or much too short.  But there was one on the National Trust side just at the southern end of the islands.  We did a big u-turn and made our way back to it, reversing in so the side doors were on the water side.  We've tied up to trees, and had to deploy the gangplank for, we think, the first time ever.  It will be interesting to see whether the NT come down this far to collect their mooring fee.

It's now really hot in the sunshine, and this is a particularly idyllic spot.  Tomorrow, we start retracing our steps.

21 miles, 8 locks.  (176 miles, 116 locks)

Home Counties Cruise: Day 13

We slept a bit later again today, and it was almost 9 before we set off.  We stopped after about 10 minutes at Cartbridge Wharf, to fill the water tank and start a wash load.  A while before we left, a little National Trust tug had passed, pushing a wide flat piled with stones.  When we got to Papercourt Lock, it was moored up, and the guys with it were just heading off over a field.

The majority of the locks were in our favour today.  At Pyrford Lock there's an elsan in a little shed, with a hand pump on the outside.  This apparently brings up river water for rinsing -- but I couldn't get anything out of it at all.

As we passed a field of steers, one of them seemed to be in a very bad mood.  It chased a swan, which of course just took to the river.  A dog walker seemed a bit concerned it might take against her black labrador.  In one pound I was surprised that a heron stayed exactly where he was as we approached; they normally take off and land just in front of the boat.  Then as I passed, it caught a fish.

Just before Parvis Bridge is a little boat yard which is rather attractive.  The other side of the bridge is the Byfleet Boat Club; a man there said he'd been told by Kathryn from Stoke Bruerne to ask me something -- but couldn't remember what it was!

Just before New Haw Lock, three swans took off and headed towards us, before landing again.

We stopped for lunch just below Town Lock in Weybridge, partly because we knew the lock keeper at Thames Lock would be on his lunch break.  As we were getting ready to set off again, a towpath walker stopped to talk; he complemented us on the boat, saying it was very subtle.  He said it didn't scream 'look at me I'm retired', or 'look at me, I haven't got a job'!

Just before Thames Lock is a block of rather attractive flats.  We particularly liked the long balcony on the top floor.

At Thames Lock we could go straight in.  It's a two stage process, as outside the lock is another pound of varying water levels, to ensure boats can get over the cill of the lock.  Once in that pound, more paddles have to be raised, and another big gate opened.  One of the lock keepers commented that the Thames seems very low at the moment.

As we've got a few days in hand, we've decided to spend the weekend on the Thames.  So we turned left straight into Shepperton Lock, which was open and ready.  I said to the lock keeper that we needed to buy a licence, so he said to tie up the boat and go to his office to do the paperwork while the lock filled.  We bought a week, which isn't much more than a daily licence.  Next to the lock is a cafe, and as the sun was now out, there were plenty of people enjoying tea and cake.

We moored for the day a little further along on Sheperton.  It's been really hot this afternoon, and various people have talked to us as they sat on the bench alongside the boat.  We've been busy, washing the roof and the towpath side of the boat, both of which were very dusty after such dry weather.

10 miles, 8 locks.  (155 miles, 108 locks)